Title (croatian) | Graševina kraljica Slavonije |
Author | Valentina Obradović |
Author | Josip Mesić |
Author | Berislav Andrlić |
Other responsibility | Maja Ergović Ravančić (Reviewer) |
Other responsibility | Brankica Svitlica (Reviewer) |
Other responsibility | Vesna Vlašić (Other) |
Author's institution | Josip Juraj Strossmayer University of Osijek Faculty of Tourism and Rural Development in Pozega |
Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline | BIOTECHNICAL SCIENCES Agronomy Viticulture and Enology |
Abstract (croatian) | Graševina je sorta koja se osim u Republici Hrvatskoj, proizvodi i u ostalim europskim regijama gdje je poznata pod brojnim sinonimima: laški rizling, riesling italico, talijanski rizling, ryzlink vlašský, welschriesling, rizling vlasský, olasz rizling i grašica. Značajne vinogradarske površine, osim u Hrvatskoj gdje se uzgaja na 4.447 ha, mogu se naći u Rumunjskoj (4.311 ha), Mađarskoj (3.474 ha), Austriji (3.091 ha), Slovačkoj (1.773 ha), Sloveniji (1.479 ha) i Češkoj (977). Međutim, niti u jednoj od navedenih zemalja ova sorta nema važnost kao u Republici Hrvatskoj. Naime, u Hrvatskoj graševina čini 25,2 % ukupnih vinogradarskih površina, dok je taj udio u Rumunjskoj 2,4 %, a u Mađarskoj 5,6 %. Nadalje, vina sorte graševina, niti u jednoj od navedenih zemalja ne uživaju status kakav imaju u Hrvatskoj, što govori u prilog činjenici da se graševina izvanredno prilagodila uvjetima kontinentalne Hrvatske, prvenstveno u područjima Slavonije i Podunavlja, iako nije hrvatska autohtona sorta. Porijeklo graševine nije do danas u potpunosti razjašnjeno, no najnovija istraživanja vode u smjeru nastanka na području Italije, jer je nedvojbeno utvrđeno kako je talijanska sorta orsolina s graševinom povezana u odnosu roditelj – potomak. Pri tome se pretpostavlja kako je orsolina roditelj, a graševina potomak no dok se ne pronađe drugi roditelj još uvijek postoji mogućnost obrnute situacije. Na područje Hrvatske dolazi krajem 19. stoljeća, a porast površina pod ovom sortom poklapa se s obnovom vinograda nakon fi loksere. Pokusni nasad na vlastelinstvu Turković na području Kutjeva pokazao je izuzetne karakteristike ove sorte, zbog čega se ona širi u ostale dijelove Hrvatske. Danas se u Hrvatskoj graševina uzgaja ponajprije u vinogradarskim regijama Slavonija i hrvatsko Podunavlje, gdje se proizvodi čak 86 % od ukupne količine vina ove sorte, pri čemu prednjači Požeško-slavonska županija s 32 %. Iako je u Hrvatskoj vinogradarska proizvodnja u krizi i površine pod vinogradima kontinuirano opadaju, proizvodnja graševine je za sada stabilna te zauzima sve veći udio u ukupnoj vinogradarskoj, odnosno vinarskoj proizvodnji. Ampelografski je graševina dobro opisana sorta, međutim u kontekstu klimatskih promjena mogu se primijetiti značajne promjene u početku i završetku pojedinih fenofaza. Pri tome je vinarima osobiti izazov odrediti optimalan početak berbe koji u posljednjih dvadesetak godina dolazi sve ranije. Dodatan problem uslijed visokih temperatura u rujnu čini vrlo nagli pad koncentracije kiselina u svega nekoliko dana, što uz povećanje količine akumuliranog šećera u bobici može dovesti do neharmoničnih vina, bez adekvatnog odnosa koncentracije kiseline i udjela alkohola. Posjedovanje vinograda na različitim položajima i s različitim sustavima uzgoja i opterećenja trsa unutar jednog vinogorja može biti dobar način ublažavanja negativnih posljedica klimatskih promjena. VIII Klonska selekcija graševine u Republici Hrvatskoj započinje na području Kutjeva 2004. godine. S 13 lokaliteta, starosti od 20 do 50 godina i nakon pregledanih oko 30.000 trsova izdvojeno je ukupno 249 potencijalnih kandidata. U konačnici je tijekom predselekcije izdvojeno ukupno 12 klonskih kandidata koji su ušli u završno ispitivanje koje je provedeno u nasadu podignutom 2012. godine u mjestu Radovanci u vinogorju Kutjevo. Završno ispitivanje potencijalnih klonova počelo je tri godine nakon sadnje vinograda, a provedeno je tijekom 2015., 2016. i 2017. godine. Trenutno su registrirana četiri hrvatska klona graševine iz selekcije Kutjevo. Jedini umatičeni nasad nalazi se na nastavnom pokušalištu Agronomskog fakulteta Sveučilišta u Zagrebu na Jazbini, a prava na licencu klonova polažu Agronomski fakultet i udruga Kutjevački vinari. Registrirani klonovi ove sorte osim u Hrvatskoj mogu se naći u Srbiji, Mađarskoj, Italiji, Austriji i Sloveniji. Vino sorte graševina općenito se opisuje kao bijelo vino voćno-cvjetnih aroma, u kojem prevladavaju arome jabuke, kruške, citrusa uz cvjetne note prvenstveno bagrema. Prema dosadašnjim istraživanjima dominiraju esteri, pri čemu su koncentracije iznad praga osjetljivosti detektirane za etil acetat, izoamil acetat, etil heksanoat, etil oktanoat, 2-feniletil acetat, etil dekanoat i etil butanoat. Od ostalih aromatskih spojeva potrebno je istaknuti izoamil alkohol, citronelol iz skupine terpena, β-damaskenon iz skupine norizoprenoida te maslačnu, kapronsku, kaprilnu, dekansku i 3-metil butansku kiselinu. Ipak, postojeća istraživanja nisu dovoljna da bi se nedvojbeno utvrdile specifi čnosti graševine u odnosu na druge sorte, a zatim specifi čnosti pojedinih regija, podregija, vinogorja ili položaja što će se pokušati odrediti kroz projekt „Uncorking rural herritage“. U tu svrhu na Fakultetu turizma i ruralnog razvoja u Požegi sastavljen je i treniran senzorski panel koji je započeo s radom početkom 2023. godine. U istraživanje su bili uključeni uzorci vina graševina berbe 2020. i 2021. iz vinogorja Kutjevo, Požega – Pleternica, Đakovo, Srijem i Baranja, zatim uzorci vina chardonnay iz vinogorja Kutjevo, Požega – Pleternica i Srijem te pinot sivi iz vinogorja Kutjevo i Đakovo. Uzorci iz vinogorja Kutjevo dobili su visoke ocjene za opisnice zeleno/travnato, zelena jabuka, zrelo voće (više u 2021. godini), limun te bijeli papar. Okusno su visoko ocijenjena svježina i gorčina. Graševine iz drugih vinogorja imale su nešto nižu svježinu, osobito uzorci iz 2020. godine, i znatno manju gorčinu. Vina graševina iz drugih vinogorja također su imala visoke ocjene za opis zeleno/travnato i zrelo voće, međutim pojavljuju se kao značajne i opisnice poput grejpa, suhog voća, marelice i slatkih začina. Također je jasno izražena razlika između vina graševina i vina chardonnay te pinot sivi u kojima su visoko ocjenjeni tropsko voće, marelica, suho voće, slatki začini i sijeno. Udio bioaktivnih komponenti u vinima sorte graševina karakterističan je za bijela vina (200-300 mg/L), međutim potrebno je istaknuti i vina proizvedena postupkom duge maceracije. Početno istraživanje pokazalo je dobre rezultate u smislu senzorske prihvatljivosti i visokog udjela polifenolnih spojeva, ali potrebna su daljnja istraživanja u svrhu optimizacije tehnoloških postupaka. Komina i sjemenke koje zaostaju nakon proizvodnje vina, također su se pokazale kao vrijedan izvor bioaktivnih sastojaka. IX Premda je općenito poznato da je područje Slavonije, a osobito područje oko Kutjeva, najpogodnije za uzgoj graševine, nužna je jasna karakterizacija stilova vina i bolje iskorištenje koncepta terroira na ovom području koje bi se moglo iskoristiti i u marketinške svrhe. |
Abstract (english) | ‘Graševina’ is a variety that, apart from the Republic of Croatia, is also produced in other European regions where it is known under numerous synonyms: ‘Laški Riesling’, ‘Riesling Italico’, ‘Italian Riesling’, ‘Ryzlink vlašský’, Welschriesling’, ‘Rizling Vlasský’, ‘Olasz Riesling’ and ‘Grašica’. Signifi cant vineyard areas, apart from Croatia where it is grown on 4,447 ha, can be found in Romania (4,311 ha), Hungary (3,474 ha), Austria (3,091 ha), Slovakia (1,773 ha), Slovenia (1,479 ha) and the Czech Republic (977 ha). However, in Croatia it has bigger importance than in other mentioned countries. Namely, in Croatia ‘Graševina’ accounts for 25.2% of the total vineyard area, while this share is 2.4% in Romania and 5.6% in Hungary. Furthermore, the wines of the ‘Graševina’ variety do not enjoy the status they have in Croatia in any of the mentioned countries, which speaks in favor of the fact that ‘Graševina’ has adapted exceptionally well to the conditions of continental Croatia, primarily in the areas of Slavonia and Podunavlje, even though it is not a Croatian indigenous variety. Th e origin of ‘Graševina’ has not been fully clarifi ed to this day, but the latest research points in the direction of its origin in Italy, as it has been undoubtedly established that the Italian variety ‘Orsolina’ is related to ‘Graševina’ in a parent-off spring relationship. It is assumed that ‘Orsolina’ is the parent and ‘Graševina’ the descendant, but until the other parent is found, there is still the possibility of the opposite situation. ‘Graševina’ came to Croatia at the end of the 19th century, and the increase of the area under this variety coincides with the renewal of vineyards after phylloxera. An experimental plantation on the Turković estate in the area of Kutjevo showed exceptional characteristics of this variety, and from there it has spread to other parts of Croatia. Today, in Croatia, ‘Graševina’ is grown primarily in the wine-growing region of Slavonia and Croatian Podunavlje, where as much as 86% of the total amount of wine of this variety is produced, with Požega-Slavonia County leading the way with 32%. Although viticulture production in Croatia is in crisis and the area under vineyards is continuously decreasing, the production of ‘Graševina’ is stable for the time being and occupies an increasing share in the total viticulture and wine production. Ampelographically, ‘Graševina’ is a well-described variety, however, in the context of climate change, signifi cant changes can be observed in the beginning and end of individual phenophases. At the same time, a particular challenge for winemakers is to determine the optimal start of the harvest, which in the last twenty years has been coming earlier and earlier, but an additional problem due to the high temperatures in September is a sudden drop in acidity in just a few days, which, along with increased amounts of accumulated sugar, can lead to inharmonious wines, with low total acidity. Vineyards in diff erent positions and with diff erent systems of cultivation and load of vines within one vineyard area can be a good way to minimize the negative consequences of climate change. XI Clone selection of ‘Graševina’ in the Republic of Croatia began in the area of Kutjevo in 2004. After examining around 30,000 vines, a total of 249 potential candidates were selected from 13 localities, aged from 20 to 50 years. During the pre-selection, a total of 12 clonal candidates were singled out for the fi nal examination, which was carried out in a plantation planted in 2012. in village Radovanci in the Kutjevo vineyard area. Th e fi nal examination of potential clones began three years after planting the vineyard, and was carried out in 2015, 2016 and 2017. Four Croatian clones of ‘Graševina’ from the Kutjevo selection are currently registered. Th e only grafted plantation is located at the teaching experimental site of the Faculty of Agriculture of the University of Zagreb in Jazbina, and the rights to license the clones are claimed by the Faculty of Agriculture and the Kutjevački vinari association. In addition to Croatia, registered clones of this variety can also be found in Serbia, Hungary, Italy, Austria and Slovenia. Th e wine of the ‘Graševina’ variety is generally described as a white wine with fruity-fl oral aromas, in which aromas of apple, pear, and citrus prevail, along with fl oral notes primarily of acacia. According to previous research, esters dominate, with concentrations above the sensitivity threshold detected for ethyl acetate, isoamyl acetate, ethyl hexanoate, ethyl octanoate, 2-phenylethyl acetate, ethyl decanoate and ethyl butanoate. Among the other aromatic compounds, it is necessary to highlight isoamyl alcohol and citronellol from the group of terpenes, β-damaskenone from the group of norisoprenoids, and butyric, caproic, caprylic, decanoic and 3-methylbutanoic acids. However, the existing research are not suffi cient to unequivocally determine the specifi cities of ‘Graševina’ in relation to other varieties, and then the specifi cities of individual regions, subregions, vineyards or locations, which will be determined through the “Uncorking rural heritage” project. For this purpose, a sensory panel was assembled and trained at the Faculty of Tourism and Rural Development in Požega, which started working at the beginning of 2023. Th e research included samples of the ‘Graševina’ wines, vintage 2020 and 2021, from the vineyard areas of Kutjevo, Požega – Pleternica, Đakovo, Srijem and Baranja, then samples of the ‘Chardonnay’ wines from the vineyard areas of Kutjevo, Požega – Pleternica and Srijem, and ‘Pinot gris’ from the vineyard areas of Kutjevo and Đakovo. Samples from the Kutjevo vineyard area received high marks for the descriptors green/grassy, green apple, ripe fruit (more in 2021), lemon, and white pepper. Freshness and bitterness were highly rated for taste. ‘Graševinas’ from other vineyard areas beside Kutjevo, had a slightly lower freshness, especially samples from 2020, and considerably less bitterness. Th e ‘Graševina’ wines from other vineyards also had high ratings for the description of green/grassy and ripe fruit, however, descriptors such as grapefruit, dried fruit, apricot and sweet spices also appeared as signifi cant. Th ere was also a clear diff erence between ‘Graševina’ wine and ‘Chardonnay’ and ‘Pinot’ wines, in which descriptors such as tropical fruit, apricot, dried fruit, sweet spices and hay were highly rated. Th e share of bioactive components in ‘Graševina’ wines is characteristic for white wines (200-300 mg/L), however, it is also necessary to highlight the wines produced XII by the process of long maceration. Initial research showed good results in terms of sensory acceptability and a high level of polyphenolic compounds, but further research is needed to optimize technological procedures. Pomace and seeds that remain after wine production have been also proven as a valuable source of bioactive ingredients. Although it is generally known that the area of Slavonia, and especially the area around Kutjevo, is the most suitable for growing ‘Graševina’, a clear characterization of wine styles is necessary in other to develop concept of terroir in this area, which could be used in marketing purposes as well |
Keywords (croatian) | |
Keywords (english) | |
Language | croatian |
Publication type | Authored book-Scientific book-Scientific monograph |
Publication status | Published |
Peer review | Peer review - domestic |
Publication version | Published version |
Pages | 130 |
ISBN | 978-953-7744-43-4 (978-953-7744-44-1 (elektroničko izdanje)) |
URN:NBN | urn:nbn:hr:277:172893 |
Online first | 2024-01 |
Project | Number: 2018-1-0682 Title (english): Uncorking rural heritage: indigenous production of fermented beverages for local cultural and environmental sustainability Acronym: Uncorking Wine & Cider Leader: Lorena Butinar Jurisdiction: Iceland Jurisdiction: Liechtenstein Jurisdiction: Norway |
Type of resource | Text |
Publisher | Sveučilište Josipa Jurja Strossmayera u Osijeku, Fakultet turizma i ruralnog razvoja u Požegi |
Publishing place | Požega |
Access conditions | Open access |
Created on | 2024-01-29 09:45:09 |